When it comes to hiking, there's a unique dynamic at play: the journey to reach the trail you truly desire. In this narrative, we explore the concept of 'getting somewhere' on the Wales Coast Path, specifically the stretch from Dinas Dinlle to Trefor.
The Journey to the Journey
Hiking, much like life, is filled with moments of anticipation and fulfillment. Sometimes, the path to your dream hike can be filled with unexpected wonders, like the vibrant landscapes of New Jersey and Connecticut on the Appalachian Trail (AT). Conversely, there are stretches that feel like a necessary evil, like the tedious miles in Pennsylvania and New York.
The Wales Coast Path, with its promise of spectacular views, presents a similar contrast. The journey from the Menai Strait to the Llyn Peninsula is a case in point. While the trail offers a unique perspective on the region, it's not without its challenges and letdowns.
Navigating the Llyn Peninsula
The Llyn Peninsula, a slender stretch of land jutting into the Irish Sea, is a destination in itself. Yet, the path to it can be a bit of a letdown. The trail, mostly consisting of paved roads and sidewalks, lacks the rugged charm hikers often seek. Sea walls, stone walls, and building walls obstruct the very views that draw hikers to this part of Wales.
Some hikers opt for a quicker, albeit less scenic, route, combining the two-day itinerary into one long day. Others, like the ladies in the blog Kate read, call it quits early. The decision to split the journey over two days, despite the pavement, was a strategic one. It allowed for a glimpse of the 'good stuff' awaiting the hikers tomorrow.
A Spiritual Detour
One of the unexpected treasures along this 'hike to get to the hike' is the North Wales Pilgrimage Route. Coincidentally, the Wales Coast Path and this spiritual trail overlap, offering hikers a chance to connect with the region's rich religious history. Saint Beuno, a 6th-century missionary, left an indelible mark on this part of Wales, with many churches still bearing his name.
A visit to the 15th-century church near Clynnog Fawr, built on the site of one of Bruno's original missions, is a highlight. The current building, a replacement for the one sacked by Vikings, offers a glimpse into the region's turbulent past. The antique tilting pews, a unique feature, add to the charm and functionality of the space.
A Preview of Things to Come
As the hikers approached Trefor, a former mining and port village, the true nature of their journey became apparent. The trail, a twisty hedged lane, led them to the harbor where they would meet their taxi. Early for their appointment, they took shelter behind a wave-cut beach, enjoying a lunch with a view.
Looking west, they spotted a massive cliff, a 2,000-foot high outcrop. This, they realized, was the hike they had been waiting for - a challenging climb with breathtaking ocean views.
Final Thoughts
Hiking, like any journey, is filled with highs and lows. The path to your destination can be just as rewarding as the destination itself. In this case, the 'hike to get to the hike' offered a unique perspective on the region, its history, and its people. It's a reminder that sometimes, the journey is the reward.